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Walking into the runway show of Asian fashion week, the first thing that’s different is how diverse the room was. The range of folks scrambling for seats and clamoring for a view of the catwalk still feels unusual, even in a city like New York. Turns out, that audience is a reflection of the multitudinal lives and cultures of the designers taking their shot on the big stage that is New York City.
Historically, there aren't the same kinds of arenas for Asian designers as for others. In fact, to even say “Asian designers” could conjure up some form of stereotype. Limited to specific cultural references or perceived as exotic or 'other’, a new wave of Asian designers is challenging these preconceptions and showcasing their talent. It’s what inspired the concept of a Fashion Week specifically geared towards Asia and the Asian diaspora. From traditional fabrics to completely modern silhouettes, these designers are redefining the boundaries of fashion and proving that Asian style is just as diverse, innovative, and influential as any other.
Asian NYFW is a fashion initiative celebrating a new era of Asian designers, talents, and creativity. SZ2 launched at Daylight Studios Flatiron with 3 runway shows on Sept. 8, 2024 showcasing 17 designers and over 100 models from around the world. On the heels of this show, we sat down with seven designers that comprised the community showcasing their art to packed audiences.
Alexander King Chen is a multifaceted creative individual known primarily for his work in fashion and film. He wears multiple hats, serving as a designer, producer and stylist. Chen's work often reflects a blend of fashion, art, and storytelling – he’s known for his ability to create visually compelling and thought-provoking content.
Eastern Standard Times:
Tell us your earliest memory of knowing you wanted to be a designer.
Alexander King Chen:
I knew I wanted to be a designer since I was a fetus.
Eastern Standard Times:
What steps are you taking to make your fashion line more sustainable, and how do you incorporate sustainable practices while maintaining a luxurious aesthetic?
Alexander King Chen:
We made 3 humanitarian/art/fashion/music short films (INHUMAN LOVE, KILL-NURN, ARE YOU IN HEAVEN) that have won a multitude of awards throughout the industry that lead me to redirect my stance. Five years ago, I stopped mass production and have decided to only accept project based work due to the toxicity of overproducing. This decision strangely benefited my label and what I created! It's been a great decision so far.
Eastern Standard Times:
Are there specific elements or traditions that you draw inspiration from?
Alexander King Chen:
My inspirations generated are through storytelling and emotions rather than by traditional means. So Asian elements that flow through my collections would be due to a part of my story telling or for a specific reason. I once designed a collection based on 15 Japanese characters I created to save the world. Each character tied to the next and played an integral part to the story line. On stage it played out like a fashion show, but actually had a plot. Patrons came to the show with a semi-sort of script printed out of each character and their “dialogue”.
Eastern Standard Times:
What are the biggest challenges you face as a designer in the global fashion market, and what specific tools help you overcome them?
Alexander King Chen:
I have WAY too much to say about this, I’ve been in the industry for over 20 years. Please feel free to DM me and we can converse there!
Siri Studios is a fashion brand known for its stylish and comfortable clothing. Their pieces are designed to empower women, celebrate individuality, and focus on quality materials and ethical production.
Eastern Standard Times:
Which parts of your Asian heritage or culture do you weave into your design aesthetic? Are there specific elements or traditions that inspire you?
Siri Studios:
Growing up in a rural Thai village, surrounded by rice farmers, my childhood was a world apart from the life I later experienced in Germany. This cultural shift—moving from a conservative environment where modesty was valued to a society more open about sexuality—was eye-opening. In Germany, I quickly noticed the sexualization of Thai women, which clashed with the values I was raised with. While I initially felt conflicted and unsure how to approach topics like body image and sexuality, I later realized that ignoring these issues doesn’t make them go away. Through my designs, I aim to open up dialogue and challenge the norms, especially around how women’s bodies are perceived and discussed.
Eastern Standard Times:
What steps are you taking to make your fashion line more sustainable, and how do you incorporate sustainable practices while maintaining a luxurious aesthetic?
Siri Studios:
Sustainability is a core aspect of my design practice. I believe designers have the power to reshape how people interact with fashion, and I want to contribute to an industry that urgently needs innovative, sustainable solutions. My most recent collection was 99% made from used garments and materials. I utilized upcycled underwear and tights, and even developed my own circular textile from old, damaged clothes donated by Goodwill. This process involved hand-shredding old T-shirts made of cotton and polyester, and transforming them into new fabrics using a combination of felting techniques. It’s about giving new life to what would otherwise be waste, while still creating pieces that feel luxurious.
Eastern Standard Times:
What emerging trends or technologies do you see shaping the future of fashion, and how are you adapting your designs to these changes?
Siri Studios:
One of the most important trends is the shift toward more conscious consumerism. People are more mindful of how and where they buy their clothes. This awareness is influencing how designers, especially emerging ones, approach their work. Many are turning to traditional craftsmanship and sustainable practices, prioritizing quality and longevity over fast fashion. I’ve embraced these principles by focusing on upcycling and sustainable fabric innovation.
Juju Dang is a Seattle-based fashion designer and artist known for her vibrant and colorful designs. Her pieces, often featuring fluid acrylic paintings, reflect her unique perspective and passion for creativity.
Eastern Standard Times:
Do you think there is decreasing or increasing representation of Asian designers in the fashion industry? What do you think is driving this change?
Juju Dang:
I would like to think there is an increase of Asian designers within the industry, however, I do not see it changing at the top tier level. Household / recognized name brands are not of Asian descent, and I do not see enough leadership or collabs with Asian designers. There are definitely new Asian brands popping up, which is incredible but I hope to see them elevated more. I would like to think that Asian (and non-Asian) influencers could also help amplify the smaller Asian brands.
Eastern Standard Times:
How do you envision the future of fashion in terms of inclusivity and diversity, and what role do you see Asian designers playing in this movement?
Juju Dang:
In general, we just need more Asian fashion leaders to represent and these leaders need to "send the elevator back down". We cannot continue the crab pot mentality and should utilize our community for support and resources. We should continue to work together to amplify our skills and work and continue to network. I don't think we should see each other as competition but rather a collective.
Eastern Standard Times:
What do you think it means to have an event like this in New York? Are you hopeful other cities will catch on?
Juju Dang:
Having Asian NYFW is bloody epic. This is only the 2nd season and really it should be the 20th season. I do think our community is fortunate to have a platform that elevates us and our work. Representation is mandatory. I do hope other cities will catch on. I am from Seattle and at one point we had a lively fashion scene but unfortunately that dissipated. I am hopeful for a revival.
Hippy Samurai blends elements of Japanese streetwear and bohemian culture. Designs feature bold prints, graphic patterns, and relaxed, comfortable fits. Inspired by the intersection of Eastern and Western aesthetics, Hippy Samurai offers a style for those who appreciate individuality and self-expression.
Eastern Standard Times:
Are there specific elements or traditions that you draw inspiration from?
Hippy Samurai:
I aim to balance the traditional spirituality and art of Japan with global cultures. The colorful imagery in my designs comes from the work of Japanese painter Kenichi Nakano, who continuously paints light particles. Meeting him inspired me to start making clothes. I believe the next generation will strive for a more harmonious and balanced world, rich in every sense and sustainable. My designs express a vision of this future world.
Eastern Standard Times:
What steps are you taking to make your fashion line more sustainable?
Hippy Samurai:
After World War II, Japan underwent globalization, and life became Americanized. While traditional Japanese spirituality and culture have remained as traditions, they have also become influenced by American ways. As a result, many families in Japan have kimonos that are used only for special occasions and otherwise remain unused. I take these high-end vintage kimonos, customize them, and combine them with art to create sustainable luxury garments.
Eastern Standard Times:
What are your hopes for this event?
Hippy Samurai:
I believe it is the mission of art and fashion to liberate humanity’s concepts once again. I think the true goal of humanity is the alignment of spirituality and physical reality, and if fashion can help people around the world see themselves as avatars of their true selves, that would be wonderful.
Fierce by AP is a South Asian owned brand that debuted for the first time at Asian NYFW SZ2. A brand new line whose designer wanted to create a collection that reminded women to be unapologetically themselves.
Eastern Standard Times:
Which parts of Asian heritage or culture do you weave into your design aesthetic?
FiercebyAP:
I am Indian and so I am always drawn to the richness and elegance of the finest fabrics around the world. I used fabrics from India and Italy, and paired them with beautiful trims and crystals. My designs are about the quality of the fabrics, craftsmanship of the trims and elegance of the finest crystals.
Eastern Standard Times:
How encouraging or difficult was it to come up in your community as a designer?
FiercebyAP:
I was constantly discouraged as I wanted to stand out and be different in my style. My own mother who is so traditional would not support the thought, it was a constant struggle to express my own style and design on me even.
Eastern Standard Times:
If you could design your dream event at an ANYFW, what would you want it to look like, what elements would it include, who would be there?
FiercebyAP:
It would be outdoors in front of a monument honoring humanity; the theme “Be the World”. Everyone at the event would sign up to help one person from the audience shape their dream into a reality. I want the venue to be filled with powerful people like football players, musicians, actors and other designers along with people who love fashion. I want to break every single rule out there.
Dhenyze Guevara bends the rules of fashion with eccentric silhouettes and bold-shouldered garments.
Eastern Standard Times:
Did you have to rebel, or were you supported in this career path?
Dhenyze:
My family has been the most supportive, and for that, I am most thankful. Though, growing up in the Philippines, I always knew that I thought a little different from my peers, and sometimes that left me to become a bit of a separatist. I was often praised for my creative abilities, but shunned for my eccentricity. I decided that the best way that I could fully express my eccentric mind is through my art. I’m still trying to get my foot in the door in the fashion industry, but I must say that I have had the privilege of the unending support of the ones closest to me.
Eastern Standard Times:
What do you hope your legacy will be in the fashion industry, and how do you plan to contribute to the ongoing evolution of fashion?
Dhenyze:
I merely hope that I get to share the way that I see the world through my art. My goal is to raise individuality, and even eccentricity to everyone; for people to be open to more creativity in their lives, and I hope that I’ll be able to do that in my work.
Eastern Standard Times:
What do you think makes New York City Asian Fashion Week a unique platform for showcasing Asian designers?
Dhenyze:
I personally am so happy that an event like this exists; something that can celebrate Asian designers and see the plethora of cultures and aesthetics into one awaited event. It’s especially important to me, as someone who came from the other side of the world just to get an experience such as this. It allows Asian designers like me who aspires to be a part of an international platform to showcase my work. I hope this helps people see the caliber of what Asian designers can bring to the table, and I hope that this can open even more doors for more Asian designers from every corner of the world.
Aiori is a jewelry brand on a mission to create inclusive pierce-free jewelry for unpierced, sensitive, keloid-prone, and torn ears. Our modern clip-on earrings offer a stylish and comfortable alternative for people who don't have their ears pierced, or who simply want to switch up their earring style without the commitment of a permanent piercing.
Eastern Standard Times:
What are the biggest challenges you face as a designer in the global fashion market, and what specific tools help you overcome them?
Aiori:
One of the biggest challenges I face as a designer in the global fashion market is dealing with imposter syndrome. Coming from a non-traditional background in fashion, I’ve often felt like an outsider trying to navigate an industry. There have been countless moments where I’ve questioned whether I was 'qualified' to take on certain opportunities or be a part of significant fashion events.
What has helped me overcome these feelings of doubt is building a strong network of like-minded individuals, particularly those involved in mission-driven brands. Engaging with other designers and entrepreneurs who share a passion for creating meaningful products has been incredibly empowering. It reminds me that fashion is about more than just credentials—it's about purpose.
Eastern Standard Times:
Are there any collaborations or partnerships you've formed with other Asian designers or brands?
Aiori:
For this AsianNYFW, we had the pleasure of collaborating with Project Tono and Claudia Amaya. Our jewelry pieces were paired with their latest collections. It was an incredible experience to work alongside designers who share a passion for pushing creative boundaries. Earlier this year, we also partnered with KayTran Eyewear, a brand known for designing eyewear specifically for low nose bridges. Together, we released a limited-edition collection that reflected both brands' focus on addressing unmet needs in the fashion world.
Eastern Standard Times:
What do you think makes New York City Asian Fashion Week a unique platform for showcasing Asian designers, and what are your hopes for this event?
Aiori:
When I think of New York, I see it as one of the world's most influential fashion capitals—a place where trends are born and boundaries are pushed. That’s what makes New York City Asian Fashion Week such a unique and vital platform. The opportunity to meet and collaborate with talented individuals from across the U.S. and beyond, all while celebrating Asian culture and heritage, has been incredibly inspiring.
I believe it has the potential to create lasting change by highlighting the importance of inclusivity and diversity in the industry, giving Asian designers a stage to showcase their work and influence the future of fashion.